Isn’t it interesting how certain ingredients seem to come in and out of popularity as time goes by? There are certainly carnivorous examples of this phenomenon - think bacon or pork belly - but vegetables get the star treatment now and again too. Last winter I mentioned that squash was having its day; this winter, it seems that Brussels sprouts are the veggie du jour.

I’ve had absolutely fantastic Brussels sprouts at restaurants all over New York City. Otto, Mario Batali’s casual pizzeria, is justly known for its sprouts with vin cotto, a deeply caramelized, decadently oily, and mildly yet intriguingly sweet treat. They’re so good I recently had them twice in one weekend, once on Friday, once on Sunday. But Mario has a competitor in Danny - Danny Meyer, that is, owner of Union Square Hospitality Group. When I got to visit his new Maialino restaurant, a Roman trattoria perched on picturesque Gramercy Park, I was treated to an order of Brussels sprouts, pecorino, and chestnuts. These sprouts were so outlandishly delicious, I swear they tasted just like potato chips.

Restaurant chefs are on to something, since sprouts are easy to cook at home as well. Quarter them and throw them in the oven for a quick roasted treat; halve or quarter them and put them in a stir fry; or, my personal favorite, slice off the ends, peel apart the leaves, and sauté them like winter greens. Watch as they get appealingly and irresistibly caramelized, then pop them in your mouth while they’re still warm. While bacon is a classical pairing with Brussels sprouts, I find them incredibly tasty with hard cheeses like parmesan or even just a bit of oil and a sprinkling of salt.

So next time you see Brussels sprouts either in a restaurant or in your local grocery store, give them a chance - they’ll be a far cry from the overcooked steamed specimens you might remember from childhood. Here’s to the ingredient of the moment, and here’s to next season’s star, whatever that may be…